<em>Shawl</em>, 19th century. Textile, indigo dye (ikat), 34 1/2 × 100 in. (87.6 × 254 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Museum Expedition 1941, Frank L. Babbott Fund, 41.1275.104. Creative Commons-BY (Photo: Brooklyn Museum, CUR.41.1275.104.jpg)

Shawl, 19th century. Textile, indigo dye (ikat), 34 1/2 × 100 in. (87.6 × 254 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Museum Expedition 1941, Frank L. Babbott Fund, 41.1275.104. Creative Commons-BY (Photo: Brooklyn Museum, CUR.41.1275.104.jpg)

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Why didn't the fabric turn blue until exposed to air?

This fabric was likely dyed in an indigo vat, which is the traditional process to make the indigo pigment water soluble. The resulting liquid is actually clear or yellowish as the indigo is transformed into leuco-indigotin (also called indigo white). When the soaked fabric is exposed to oxygen, the leuco-indigotin combines with oxygen in the air to become indigo and fixes itself to the fibers, turning them blue!

My wife and I are having a debate about the use of urine in authentic indigo dye. I say that's correct. This is not a joke text. I might just be a moron.

Hi there! You're not the first to ask about this! Urine is sometimes used in the indigo dying process, but not always.

Knew it! Why?

One stage in the lengthy indigo dying process is to dissolve a crystalline pigment derived from the indigo plant itself. To dissolve this "indican" you need an alkaline chemical like lime, lye, or urine.

Thanks so much.

Shawl

Arts of the Americas

MEDIUM Textile, indigo dye (ikat)

DATES 19th century

DIMENSIONS 34 1/2 × 100 in. (87.6 × 254 cm) (show scale)

COLLECTIONS Arts of the Americas

ACCESSION NUMBER 41.1275.104

CREDIT LINE Museum Expedition 1941, Frank L. Babbott Fund

EXHIBITIONS

Infinite Blue

MUSEUM LOCATION This item is not on view

CAPTION Shawl, 19th century. Textile, indigo dye (ikat), 34 1/2 × 100 in. (87.6 × 254 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Museum Expedition 1941, Frank L. Babbott Fund, 41.1275.104. Creative Commons-BY (Photo: Brooklyn Museum, CUR.41.1275.104.jpg)

IMAGE overall, CUR.41.1275.104.jpg. Brooklyn Museum photograph, 2015

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RIGHTS STATEMENT Creative Commons-BY

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